NYC Jewelry Week 2022 Highlights
The content of this article reflects the views of the writer, and not necessarily those of Ethical Metalsmiths. This article was written for The Source. *Please Note: Jay Moncada is the current EM Treasurer and serves on the Executive Committee.
NYC Jewelry Week 2022 graphic. Photo courtesy of NYC Jewelry Week website.
New York City Jewelry Week’s fifth annual run just ended, but I wish it went on longer! It was a week jam-packed with jewelry events, exhibits, panels, and plenty of jaw-dropping creations all over Manhattan and Brooklyn.
Personally, it was my first time attending on behalf of The Source, with the specific aim to document some of the responsible jewelry community’s events + initiatives.
Without further ado, here’s my take on some of the most inspiring collaboratives!
Reciprocity: Fully Traceable Peruvian ASM Gold
I’m not going to lie, this was by far and away my favorite event (I’m aware that I’m biased towards anything that highlights artisanal women miners!)
The event was hosted at the Consulate General of Peru where as many people as could comfortably fit were packed into a tiny room to listen to the panel, which included Jen Marraccino of Pure Earth, designer Dana Bronfman, Peruvian model and activist Juana Burga, designer Andrea Jose. Jay Moncada of Perpetuum Jewels served as moderator.
From left to right: Jen Marraccino, Dana Bronfman, Juana Burga, Andre Jose, Jay Moncada. Photo courtesy of the author.
First, we watched a short video produced by Pure Earth that shows Andrea Jose’s interactions with Peru.
The women on the panel detailed what it meant to them to be a part of the collaboration to bring together a group of international jewelers to craft pieces using fully traceable, mercury-free artisanal gold from the Madre de Dios region of Peru.
Andrea Jose shared that she “helps train miners in melting gold techniques. It’s a reciprocal process of learning how to best equip and teach them.”
Each piece of jewelry featured at the event had an information card next to it that not only listed the gold miner’s names, but even the exact percentage of their gold that was used in that piece.
Unbreakable cuff bracelet designed by Amulet by D. Photo courtesy of author.
Amulet by D Jewelry plaque. Photo courtesy of author.
Jen Marraccino explained that Pure Earth has multiple mining communities in the Madre de Dios region that are eager and waiting to work with them, but that Pure Earth simply doesn’t have the funds to do that yet. (Read: they need your support!! Click HERE to donate.)
In Madre de Dios, authorities declared a state of emergency in eleven districts in 2016 due to mercury poisoning in local populations. Pure Earth is helping miners in this region implement mercury-free mining methods as well as teaching them reforestation methods after the mine has closed.
Interestingly, Jen also shared how the miners Pure Earth is working with were disappointed to see only negative coverage of mining in the Peruvian Amazon by networks like NBC. They are so proud of the extremely hard work that they are doing to change things in the region, and want more people to know about their efforts.
Dana Bronfman chimed in after that point and said, “I want to see people focused on honesty AND solutions.”
People admiring the Reciprocity jewelry collection at the Consulate of Peru. Photo courtesy of author.
Are you a designer interested in buying this ASM gold? There is plenty of gold available! Contact Andrea Jose at andreajose@andreajose.com.
Radical Jewelry Makeover: Artists Exhibit at Bario Neal
Radical Jewelry Makeover (RJM), an initiative born out of Ethical Metalsmiths, showcased a mind-bogglingly innovative collection from 25 different artists. I attended the opening night, generously hosted by Anna Bario of Bario Neal in their beautiful Brooklyn location.
All of the pieces were made from 100% recycled jewelry components and have been “upcycled” into fashionable brooches, necklaces, rings, and more.
Radical Jewelry Makeover Artist pieces. Photos courtesy of the author.
From left to right: Christina Malle, Anna Bario, Jay Moncada, Susie Ganch, Kathleen Kennedy and Chloe Beaumont. Photo courtesy of Jay Moncada.
It was so fun to meet a bunch of fellow EM members–some for the first time in person!
Learn more about RJM and all the new things happening via my interview with Susie Ganch.
Muzo Emeralds Collection at Greenwich St. Jewelers
There’s no better way to start a Friday than getting to gawk at piece after piece of incredible emerald jewelry! The Muzo Emerald collection at Greenwich St. Jewelers featured six designers, each of whom selected Colombian emeralds for their designs.
I was absolutely blown away by the designer’s creativity. I will admit I was skeptical of Muzo’s “responsible” claim, but much less so after reading about what they are doing via a book that was provided to Greenwich St. Jewelers.
After all–it is not impossible to conduct a large-scale mining operation responsibly; it takes dedication and care for the local people and environment, but it can be done.
Muzo Emeralds book detailing the company’s environmental policies, traceability, and community outreaches. Photo courtesy of the author.
Page from Muzo Emeralds book on their environmental practices. Photo courtesy of the author.
An example of a Muzo Emerald certification. Photo courtesy of the author.
Muzo Emeralds employee practices and community outreach. Photo courtesy of the author.
Muzo Emerald Collection with pieces by Harlin Jones, Made by Malyia, Ataumbi Metals, Amanitomi, Embirikos, Johnny Nelson, and L’Enchanteur. Photo by Alain Simic.
Bliss Lau: Heirloom Gems, Fairmined Gold
I got to stop by Bliss Lau’s studio and have a lovely chat with her as I admired her unique designs. She recently launched a collection of pieces made using Fairmined gold. Her clients are encouraged to bring in their heirloom diamonds and colored stones, which can be used in many of her designs.
Bliss Lau’s new Fairmined Gold collection. Photo courtesy of the author.
Bliss even made pieces (see the photo below) that serve as “examples” for this express purpose. Her clients often have gems of various sizes and shapes such as baguettes, which fit nicely into this versatile yellow gold necklace.
Diamond baguette and yellow gold Bliss Lau necklace. Photo courtesy of the author.
Bliss has overcome several obstacles in order to be able to offer her clients Fairmined gold, and is willing to share her caster with other designers if they are in need of someone who will cast this gold. Contact her at hello@blisslau.com.
Customizable Bliss Lau gemstone pendants. Photo courtesy of the author.
Bliss Lau diamond ring that can be customized with any gemstone. Photo courtesy of the author.
Black in Jewelry Coalition: Awards, Mixer, and Fundraiser
If staring at emeralds is the best way to start a Friday, celebrating a room full of diversity is the best way to end it.
Black in Jewelry Coalition hosted a dazzling, sold-out event at Glass Ceiling Nomad that was a fundraiser, mini-awards ceremony, and mixer all in one.
BIJC raffle fundraising items. Photo courtesy of the author.
Annie Doresca, CFO of Jewelers of America, thanked the BIJC team and celebrated how diverse the room was.
Later, the Here We Are Awards were given out, which honor the stand-out creatives from the Here We Are initiative. Here We Are is a platform established by NYCJW in 2019 to support underrepresented voices in the jewelry industry through action and impact.
Only a tiny fraction of jewelry professionals in America are Black, a reality that needs to change—and BIJC is doing so much to help usher in that change.
You can support diversity, inclusion and equity in our industry through donating to BIJC, partaking in the I.D.E.A. training program with your employees and/or colleagues, and by shopping black-owned businesses to start.
Specific Gravity: Supporting Local Jewelry Designers
Liz, founder of Stay Gold Collective, and Erin, co-founder of Brooklyn Metal Works and Specific Gravity, brought their communities together to celebrate collaboration and connection. All the pieces from the special collection are available for purchase here.
I visited the charming Specific Gravity storefront and was mesmerized by all of the designs; see some of my favorites below!
Jewelry available at Specific Gravity, all are a part of the special collection except for the first top left image. Photo courtesy of the author.
EM is very passionate about supporting emerging jewelry designers and makers, and we love to see spaces like Brooklyn Metal Works that provide bench spaces, resources, classes and community.
Did you know that EM offers Student Memberships at just $35 a year? Click here to check it out!
All in all, it was an invigorating week full of inspirational people and gorgeous jewels. I can’t wait for next year!
Stay tuned for more “Illuminators” articles featuring some of the people I spotlighted in this piece….
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